Cycling in Spain 2023 – fiestas

In Rioja and Cantabria

Travel notes by Vic Ient –  September 2023

To read more and see photos about our amazing cycle ride CLICK HERE

During our cycle ride along the Camino de Santiago we were lucky on two occasions, one at Logroño, and the other in Reinosa, to have arrived during major fiestas. They were both associated with the week-long fiesta of San Mateo (St Matthew).  

Logroño

The first fiesta we came across was in Logroño.

In the centre of this city was a ‘wine’ fountain. I don’t think it’s wine but just coloured red for festivals. Wine is important to this region – we were in the centre of the Rioja wine growing area so no wonder they celebrate their wine.!

However, like many towns and cities, Logroño is no stranger to celebrating festivals. We were lucky to arrive during the festival of wine and San Mateo. I took a walk downtown from our hotel in the evening. There were lots of people about and so clearly there was something on. On such occasions it’s always important to head for the ‘barrio antiguo’ (old quarter). The narrow streets were crowded with exuberant people. The Spanish have this wonderful habit in the early evening of ‘paseo’ (going for a stroll). Passing through the crowded streets I soon alighted on a bar called ‘Casa Victor’.

Of course, I couldn’t pass this place by. It was a wonderfully buzzing, crowded little bar with a great atmosphere. I was soon equipped with a selection of very tasty pinchos and a glass of wine. Not long after this, my friends joined me. People were coming and going and the conversations were lively and friendly. It was a great place to be! Then I heard music outside and found a street band passing by. This is very typical during a fiesta where musicians wander the streets – wonderful! 

Reinosa

The next place where we came across a fiesta was some days later in Reinosa which is in the foothills of the Picos de Europa. This was also in the festival week of San Mateo but the day we were there was “Día de Campoo” which is the most important festival in Reinosa and in this part of Cantabria.

On Campoo Day, the customs, traditions and folklore of the Cantabrian region of Campoo are celebrated. It takes place on the last Sunday of the month of September.  

The main event of the day, however, is the parade of the “carretas”, pulled by traditional oxen and Tudanca cows (a native Campurrian breed). The carts each come from villages in the Campoo area and display historical traditions, even going as far as to have replicas of rural houses from times past.  Many people wore traditional costumes including clogs. My understanding is that these clogs were to keep clothing and feet out of the muddy streets. 

It is a very jolly affair. Here I am sampling wine from a wine sack at the invitation of two locals dressed in traditional historical costume.

There is much singing and music making by the Campurrianos. A wonderful atmosphere of coming together.

 We were so lucky to chance upon these two fiestas!

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